After a long day on the water yesterday and a night of deep sleep, we woke up to a bright sun a blue sky. The breeze was
light and we took our time, had a great breakfast. Took my time for my favorite meal of the day, before heading to surf.
The surf it seems, was small… well not for me. I realize how much work it is every time I go in the water in a place I’ve never been. I have to start all over again. I felt like I’ve never caught a single wave of my life and it can be very discouraging. I got tumbled trying to paddle out, and had to come back to shore to calm myself down. I realized that I cannot take for granted the improvements of the summer in Hatteras. It’s always back to basics: playing in the white water, getting slowly pushed not even getting up. Now I know, I need to start one step back each time, not to have to go back to zero we I try to go too fast! All about knowing our limits, and respecting them!
Sympatique ce début de site. C’est chouette on va pouvoir te suivre et avoir de tes nouvelles. Je t’embrasse, Luciexx